Jodhpur, the second-largest city in Rajasthan, is famously known as the Blue City for its distinctive, blue-painted houses clustered beneath the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort, which towers over the city.

This visit to Jodhpur continues our exploration of Rajasthan’s royal history. For the broader story of the region’s rulers, forts, and shifting alliances, read Rajasthan: A Land of Maharajas, Forts and Shifting Alliances.

In 1459, Rao Jodha, a ruler of the Rathore dynasty, moved the capital of his kingdom of Marwar from Mandore, approximately nine kilometres north of present-day Jodhpur, to a more defensible location. There, on a rocky hill, he founded the city of Jodhpur and began constructing Mehrangarh Fort, one of Rajasthan’s most formidable fortresses.

Perched approximately 125 metres above the city, the fort was expanded over several centuries by successive Rathore rulers. Its massive sandstone walls, imposing gateways, and exquisitely decorated palaces reflect both the military strength and artistic sophistication of the Marwar kingdom.

The Rathores ruled Marwar for centuries, but their history was marked by warfare, shifting alliances, and struggles for power, particularly with the Mughal Empire. In 1544, Rao Maldeo lost control of Jodhpur to the forces of Sher Shah Suri, although the Rathores later regained their kingdom. The fort also came under Mughal control during the reign of Emperor Aurangzeb in the late seventeenth century.

Today, Mehrangarh Fort stands as a powerful reminder of Rajasthan’s turbulent past, where royal ambition, military conflict, and political alliances shaped the destiny of its kingdoms.

As we stepped inside the fort, we were struck by the grandeur of its architecture and the exquisite craftsmanship of its interiors. The museum houses a fascinating collection of royal artefacts, including ornate palanquins once used by the Maharajas, intricately crafted royal cradles, beautiful miniature paintings influenced by Mughal art, richly embroidered textiles, and an impressive display of weapons and armour. Each exhibit offers a glimpse into the opulent lives of the Marwar rulers.

From the terrace, we enjoyed a breathtaking panoramic view of the Blue City stretching out below. The old cannons lining the ramparts reminded us of the fort’s former role as a formidable military stronghold. What a striking contrast to the present day, when visitors can relax at a restaurant within the fort and admire the same magnificent view that once served as a lookout for approaching enemies.

Back inside the fort, we entered Phool Mahal, or the Palace of Flowers, an exquisitely decorated private audience hall that also served as a place of royal entertainment. Originally built in the eighteenth century and later embellished by successive Maharajas, it is renowned for its lavish interior, particularly its magnificent ceiling adorned with intricate goldwork and mirrors. According to local tradition, the gold used in its decoration was brought from Ahmedabad as spoils of war.

The upper walls are decorated with nineteenth-century miniature-style paintings depicting the rulers of Marwar and Hindu deities, while colourful stained-glass windows add another layer of richness to the already opulent interior. Together, these elaborate details offer a fascinating glimpse into the artistic tastes and extravagant lifestyles of Jodhpur’s royal court.

However, behind the grandeur of Mehrangarh Fort lie some rather gruesome stories.

According to legend, a hermit known as Chidiyawale Baba lived on the rocky hill where the fort was to be built. When he was forced to leave to make way for its construction, the angry hermit cursed the land, condemning it to suffer from perpetual drought.

To appease the hermit and lift the curse, a man named Rajaram Meghwal is said to have volunteered to sacrifice his life. In 1459, he was buried alive beneath the foundations of the fort. Even today, visitors can see a memorial marking the place where he is believed to have been buried, near the entrance.

Another disturbing reminder of the fort’s past can be found beside the Iron Gate, or Loha Pol. Here, a series of handprints commemorates royal women who performed sati, the practice in which widows were immolated on their husbands’ funeral pyres. The handprints are traditionally associated with the widows of Maharaja Man Singh, who died in 1843. Standing before these marks, we were reminded of the tragic fate of women whose lives were so closely bound to the customs and expectations of the royal household.

Our guide then pointed towards a balcony high above the rocky cliffs of Mehrangarh Fort and told us another chilling story.

In the early sixteenth century, Rao Ganga, the ruler of Marwar, fell to his death. According to one account, his ambitious son, Rao Maldeo, pushed him from the heights to seize the throne. Whether this was an act of murder or a tragic accident remains uncertain. Maldeo subsequently became one of Marwar’s most powerful rulers, expanding his kingdom and strengthening its defences.

These stories reminded us that behind the splendour of Rajasthan’s royal palaces lay a turbulent history of ambition, betrayal, sacrifice, and struggles for power.