Setting Out

Historically rich and artistically vibrant, Fort Kochi faces the Arabian sea and is cradled by Kerala’s backwaters. When my husband and I set off for the Fort Kochi heritage hotel, we had no idea how long the journey would take. I was still floating on the spiritual high of the experiences I had had in Thrissur and paid little attention to the practical matter of how we were actually going to reach our next destination.

Our taxi driver was young and rather inexperienced, and most likely from another state. When we were caught in a traffic jam, he explained that we would need to take a ferry to reach Fort Kochi. The ferry could carry only about ten cars at a time, yet there were already more than thirty vehicles waiting ahead of us. To make matters worse, one of the ferries was out of service that day, leaving only a single ferry in operation. It soon became clear that we would be waiting at least an hour and a half before our car could board.

What made the delay even more frustrating was the occasional appearance of cars bearing government flags, which would quietly slip into the front of the queue. It was another reminder of India’s curious VIP culture, in which certain inconveniences seem to vanish for the privileged. I have also heard that some people merely pretend to have such status and use the flag to their advantage. What made the whole situation almost comical was that we could actually see Fort Kochi from where we were waiting. It was only a couple of kilometres away, yet with the backwaters cutting across the land and no bridge connecting the two sides, it remained frustratingly out of reach

Heritage Hotel in Fort Kochi and Surrounding

By the time we finally arrived, the Old Harbour Hotel felt almost miraculous. It was a colonial mansion built in the early 1800s as a residence for European sailors and tea brokers and later owned by a tea-estate owner. This 300 years old mansion with a blend of Dutch arches and Portuguese courtyard design, had now become one of the highly sought after heritage stays in Fort Kochi. Its high ceilings polished wooden floors, spacious lobby, welcoming staff, and several well-fed resident dogs and cats made it instantly charming. One of the dogs, who had been lying stretched out on the floor, suddenly got to its feet and, despite a limp and the heavy weight of its body, made its way over to greet us. We were touched by both its effort and friendliness.

Climbing the creaky wooden staircase, we were shown to a spacious suite upstairs, with lattice windows overlooking the garden, a smaller sitting room with a long wooden swing, and a stylish bathroom. The antique wooden furniture gave the space a distinctive character, and staying there felt almost like stepping into a living museum, where time had slowed just enough to let the colonial past breathe.There was also a lovely restaurant overlooking a lush garden and swimming pool downstairs. After the long and unexpectedly exhausting journey, it was exactly the kind of place where one could finally exhale.

The evening air was still damp from the rain, which had stopped just as we arrived. In front of the hotel stood several enormous old trees, flourishing in the monsoon with fresh green leaves. Drawn by the cool air, we went out for a walk and wandered through the narrow lanes lined with small shops and colorful murals. Fort Kochi is renowned for the Kochi-Muziris Biennale, the contemporary art festival that had been held for several months until March of that year. The murals near Tower Road seemed to carry something of that same creative spirit, as though art in Fort Kochi refused to remain confined within galleries and had instead spilled out into the streets and walls of the town itself.

We stepped into an art-gallery café called Kashi Art Café, whose entrance was filled with a beautiful exhibition of watercolor paintings. The paintings and sculptures on display were striking, and it was immediately clear that they were the work of highly skilled artists. Around the rustic courtyard, young couples and groups of friends lingered over their meals and conversations. To my surprise, nearly every table seemed to be sharing the same large chocolate cake. We had already ordered a substantial meal, but I decided that so many people could not be mistaken and added the cake to our order as well. It proved to be a wise decision. The chocolate cake was delicious, and the lasagna was equally memorable. Between the artwork, the gentle murmur of conversation, the excellent meal, and the monsoon-soft evening air, it felt like exactly the right place to linger.

After dinner, we strolled through Vasco da Gama Square, which was lively with vendors selling street food, fresh fish, clothing, and souvenirs. Although the square was bustling with activity, darkness had already fallen, and we were unable to see the famous Chinese fishing nets. That disappointment merely gave us another reason to return to Kerala one day.

लोकाः समस्ताः सुखिनो भवन्तु

Continue reading: Fort Kochi Day 2 – Kathakali Dance & Colonial History in Kerala