As our plane descended into Kangra Airport from Delhi, we were welcomed by the sight of snow-clad peaks shimmering against the blue sky. From there, we made our way to McLeod Ganj, a tranquil hill station in upper Dharamshala that serves as the seat of the Tibetan government-in-exile. The place is often called “Little Lhasa” with approximately 8000 Tibetans living there. The 14th Dalai Lama fled to India and was granted asylum in Dharamsala after the 1959 Tibetan uprising against the Communist Chinese invasion of Tibet. For more than seventy years, the Dalai Lama has continued to seek dialogue with China in the hope of protecting Tibet and preserving its unique language, culture, religion, history, and environment.

In 2025, at the age of ninety, he published Voice for the Voiceless, a book that reflects on Tibet’s long struggle under Chinese rule. It is heartbreaking to learn what Tibet and its people have endured. One of the most disturbing events was the abduction of the 11th Panchen Lama by Chinese authorities in 1995, shortly after the Dalai Lama recognized him as Tibet’s second-highest spiritual leader. He was only six years old at the time and has never been seen publicly since. Since the Panchen Lama plays an important role in identifying the next Dalai Lama, China later appointed its own Panchen Lama, making its political intentions in Tibet increasingly clear.

At the same time, it is deeply inspiring to witness the resilience, strength, and unwavering spirit of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan people. Although we were not able to meet him in person, he appears publicly once a month for the Long-Life Prayer ceremony, which is open to everyone. Details are available on his official website, where you can also watch recordings of the ceremony and his teachings.

The main temple stands at the heart of McLeod Ganj, welcoming visitors from all walks of life. Despite the steady flow of tourists, we were able to sit quietly in meditation near the golden statue of Avalokiteśvara, and no one asked us to leave. What struck me most was the cultural and spiritual connection between Tibet and Japan. Mahayana Buddhism reached Japan in the sixth century and later spread to Tibet between the seventh and eighth centuries. Avalokiteśvara, the eleven-headed Bodhisattva of Compassion worshipped at the temple here, is also revered in Japan as Jūichimen Kannon. Although they are regarded as the same deity, the structure and expression of the eleven heads reveal fascinating differences between the Tibetan and Japanese traditions.

Reflecting on Avalokitesvara also made me realize how widely the ideal of compassion is shared across spiritual traditions. Whether expressed through Buddhism, Hinduism, or Christianity, compassion appears again and again as a central virtue. This reminded me that beyond differences in doctrine, ritual and practice, there may be certain qualities that unite us all. Of these, compassion strikes me as perhaps the most important. Regardless of our faith, nationality, or background, it is a quality that every human being can strive to cultivate.

At the main temple, there is a special set of Mani prayer wheels filled with thousands of repetitions of the Avalokiteśvara mantra, “Om Mani Padme Hum.” In Tibetan Buddhist tradition, turning these wheels is believed to bring the same spiritual merit as reciting all the mantras contained within them.

It was comforting to see people still quietly turning the wheels in prayer. At the same time, however, I could not help noticing that the practice seems to be fading. Compared with my first visit in 1991, far fewer local people now carry the small handheld prayer wheels that were once such a familiar sight in McLeod Ganj. Instead, I noticed many more people holding prayer beads.

Perhaps traditions do not disappear all at once. Rather, they change form and find new ways to endure.

One of our favourite things to do in McLeod Ganj was to stroll along the peaceful path that circles the main temple complex. Lined with nature, Tibetan prayer wheels, and traditional artworks, the trail had a quiet, contemplative atmosphere. Along the way, we often saw local Tibetans walking slowly with prayer beads in their hands, gently absorbed in their daily practice. I was also delighted to see a lot more Tibetan nuns walking around town compared to 30 years ago.

Watching them, I found myself reflecting on the remarkable resilience of the Tibetan community Dharamshala. Despite decades of exile, the Tibetan community of Dharamshala has managed to preserve their traditions, spiritual practices, and cultural identity with extraordinary determination. Seeing these simple acts of devotion reminded me of the quiet strength that has enabled their community to endure far from the homeland they still hold dear.

A visit to Norbulingka Institute is also essential for anyone interested in the Tibetan community of Dharamshala. Founded in 1995 to preserve authentic Tibetan art and culture, the institute is a quiet sanctuary of craftsmanship and tradition. Designed by Japanese architect Kazuhiro Nakahara, the place reminded me of Japanese gardens and temples, yet expressed through distinctly Tibetan architecture and aesthetics.

Visitors can observe artisans at work creating thangka paintings, wood carvings, statues, and traditional garments, and can also take part in workshops themselves. We spent some time meditating in the main temple before the golden Buddha statue. The stillness of the space made it especially conducive to meditation, and sitting on cushions on the floor seemed to draw the mind naturally into deeper concentration.

Located near the Norbulingka Institute, Tibet Museum is one of the most important places to gain a deeper understanding of Tibetan history, culture, religion, traditions, and the realities Tibet faces today. Relocated to a new building in 2022, the museum presents uncensored accounts through thoughtfully curated exhibits, photographs, artefacts, and personal objects donated by Tibetans in exile.

Tushita Meditation Center is a great place to do the study and practice of Mahayana Buddhism. They offer a variety of courses, including 10-day introductions to Buddhism courses, drop-in sessions, and courses for intermediate and advanced practitioners throughout the year.

My time in Dharamshala left me with a deep sense of admiration for the Tibetan community here. The Tibetan community of Dharamshala has managed to preserve their traditions, spiritual practices, and cultural identity with remarkable dignity and perseverance through decades of exile. More than the snow-covered mountains or the temples, it is this resilience that remains my strongest memory of Dharamshala.

लोकाः समस्ताः सुखिनो भवन्तु