Kumanokodo: a place for transformation
In this story, I’d like to explore why Kumano has been regarded as a sacred place of pilgrimage and spiritual rebirth for centuries. Following the ancient paths through its mountains and forests, I became fascinated by how Shinto, the mountain ascetic tradition of Shugendo, and Buddhism became intertwined, creating a spiritual landscape where the forest, waterfalls, shrines and ancient paths are themselves part of the sacred journey.
As we continued south towards Kumano, the landscape changed dramatically. The pilgrimage routes led through cool, dense forests, often following ancient stone paths softened by moss. This is perhaps the image most associated with the Kumano Kodo today: a narrow path disappearing beneath towering trees, leading deeper into the mountains.
By medieval times, pilgrimage to Kumano had become so popular that the endless stream of pilgrims was described as ari no Kumano mode, “the ants’ pilgrimage to Kumano.” But these people were not simply travelling to see a beautiful or sacred place.
Kumano was regarded as a place of death and rebirth. Entering its remote mountains symbolized leaving the ordinary world behind, and the pilgrimage became a journey of purification and spiritual renewal. Pilgrims entered the sacred landscape carrying their former selves and returned, at least symbolically, reborn. This idea of transformation is important for understanding Kumano.
The destinations of the pilgrims were the three great shrines collectively known as the Kumano Sanzan: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha.
The largest Torii in Japan in a place where the original Hongu Taisha existed.
Where Shinto, Shugendo and Buddhism Meet
Kumano is also a remarkable example of the meeting of Shinto, the mountain ascetic tradition known as Shugendo, and Buddhism. Rather than one tradition simply replacing another, they became deeply intertwined over the centuries, creating a spiritual landscape in which mountains, waterfalls, forests, shrines, and temples all belonged to the same sacred world.
The three great shrines of Kumano came to be associated not only with Shinto deities but also with Buddhist figures and the blessings of past, present, and future lives.
At Hongu Taisha, the principal Shinto deity was traditionally identified with Amida Buddha, associated with salvation in the future life. At Hayatama Taisha, the deities were associated with Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of healing, and the past. At Nachi Taisha, the deities were associated with Senju Kannon, the thousand-armed Kannon whose compassion reaches out to relieve the suffering of the present.
The idea of walking through Kumano as a journey through time feels particularly fitting. The pilgrimage was not simply a physical journey from one shrine to another, but a journey through one’s own existence: what has been, what is, and what is yet to come.
The Sacred Waterfall of Nachi
At Nachi, this spiritual landscape reaches one of its most dramatic expressions.
Nachi Waterfall plunges 133 metres from the forested mountain above. More than a spectacular natural feature, the waterfall itself has long been regarded as sacred.
Waterfalls also hold an important place in Shugendo. Mountain ascetics sought remote and challenging places for spiritual practice, and standing beneath falling water became a form of purification and discipline. The physical force of nature was not something merely to observe; it became part of the spiritual practice itself.
Standing before Nachi Waterfall, I could understand why.
The immense column of water falls continuously from the mountain, its sound filling the valley below. I have seen many beautiful waterfalls, but rarely one that felt so powerful and yet so serene. It was the kind of place where you could spend hours simply standing still and letting the landscape speak for itself.
Perhaps this is what makes Kumano feel so different from simply visiting a collection of temples and shrines. Here, the mountains are not merely a backdrop to religious practice. The forest, the waterfall, the ancient paths, and the stories attached to them all seem to belong to one continuous spiritual landscape.
And as I was about to discover at Nachi, some of those stories travelled a very long way before becoming part of this landscape.
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